Q & A:
What is Off-set and straight pin means for the bulbs?
How do I know if I have factory xenon or factory halogen (non-xenon)?
What is LHD and RHD?
What is Auto-Leveling (Electronic Self Level)?
What is real Bi-Xenon?
What is DRL?
What is Pre-Facelift and Facelift?
What is Clip-On and Screw-On?
Angel Eye reference installation (for BMW models only):
Detail BMW Angel Eye and MERCEDES, VW, AUDI Headlight Installation Guides:
Troubleshoot on HID system:
What is cross reference testing?
Troubleshoot on CCFL Angel Eye System:
Troubleshoot on UHP LED Angel Eye System:

 

Common Good to Know Knowledge:

LED and HID will only light up if polarity is connected correctly.  Meaning Positive to Positive and Negative to Negative.  If Positive to Negative, not only it will not light up, sometimes it will kill the LED/HID as well.

Colored wire is usually the Positive terminal.
Black or Brown wire is usually Negative terminal.


What is Off-set and straight pin means for the bulbs?
Take the Bulb up and look from below, you will see the base have the one of the two configurations shown below:


Straight Pin Bulbs

 
Off-Set Pin Bulbs

Many European vehicles are provided by the factory with different type bulbs even within the same model/year range.  Therefore, it is best that you as the car owner to check them before making the purchase.

 

How do I know if I have factory xenon or factory halogen (non-xenon)?
Go ahead turn on BOTH your low beam and high beam for 30 seconds.  If you see both high and low beam have the same yellowish color after 30 seconds, then you have the halogen model.  If you see low beam is whiter than high beam after 30 seconds, then you have factory xenon model.
 
What is LHD and RHD?
LHD stands for Left Hand Drive while RHD stands for Right Hand Drive.  LHD is what USA, Canada and majority of European countries use, meaning the driver is on the LEFT side of the car.  While UK, Japan, Hong Kong, Australia.... has the opposite, RHD, meaning the driver is on the RIGHT side of the car.  Due to the road is on the opposite side between the 2 systems.  Most of the headlights need to be made or be able to adjust so it fits the road regulation of that particular system of use; since the projection of the light beam is the completely the opposite of the other road system.

 

What is Auto-Leveling (Electronic Self Level)?
Auto-Leveling is the new feature introduced in the late 90s.  It basically is that a headlight has a motor built-in which operates the headlight projecting angles (up and down) either by car's computer automatically or there is a switch inside the car which you can manually adjust inside the car.  This feature is to provide the best optical angle for the beam output, therefore maximize the visibility for driver while not blinding the upcoming traffic.  Originally, it was only offered to top of line models, now it becomes more and more common on all European vehicles.  If you originally don't have an Auto-Leveling headlight, upgrading to a headlight that comes with Auto-Leveling motor and feature will NOT make your car to have Auto-Leveling, because Auto-Leveling has to do with more than just the headlight upgrade.  It also has to do with re-programming of car's ECU (which only dealer have the machine to perform) plus some extra wiring harness and adapters for the Auto-Leveling plug.  Most of the Mercedes, Audi and Volkswagen's Auto-Leveling plug are located in the same plug where the low beam/high beam/parking light is.  while BMW usually has a separate plug just for Auto-Leveling.  To know if your car has Auto-Leveling or not, simply turn on the headlight, if you see the headlight going up and down for a few sections, that means you have Auto-Leveling.  For BMW E38, E39, E46, E53 X5, you can also check if you have this plug in the back of the headlight?  If you do, you have Auto-leveling model.

The RED arrow shows the Auto-Leveling Plug.

 

What is real Bi-Xenon?
Bi-Xenon means high and low beam are both genuine xenon HID, but the real bi-xenon is that it uses the same xenon bulb and ballasts in the same projector which that projector has an electric controlled shutter built in, in front of light bulb but behind the glass projector lens.  When it's low beam, the shutter is lowered covering half of the light output and when you switch to high beam, the shutter is lifted, thus nothing blocking in front of the bulb, thus produce full further beam output = high beam effect.  This is the real bi-xenon that is used on all latest OEM Bi-Xenon headlight on Mercedes, Audi, BMW and VW.  Unlike many fake bi-xenon out there is simply putting multiple set of xenon bulbs in different housing or have the HID bulb itself moves forward and backward to achieve the beam pattern difference.

 

What is DRL?
DRL stands for Daytime Running Light which originally was developed and used in more foggy country and it is a safety feature now becomes standardize by many car makers.  In some countries, it is by law required features.  DRL may use your low beam or high beam or others, but it is normally supplied only with 27.5W power vs. the original 55W halogen bulbs used in the halogen low beam or halogen high beam.  So it might create an issue if you upgrade a genuine xenon HID system to the headlight while DRL is using the new xenon HID system.  Because standard xenon HID needs 35W to power it, while DRL is only supplied with 27.5W, it means the system is underpowered.  Flickering, error message, not able to fire it up would be the common issue if you have DRL powering the HID system.  To solve it, the installer can either disable the DRL feature altogether or do minor re-wiring so the DRL is powering something else other than the new HID light.
 
BMW Reference:

What is Pre-Facelift and Facelift?
As you might or might not know that a normal car's production period (a chassis) is around 4~6 years and in between, car manufacturer usually will make small editing on their design after 2~3 years of the first introduction, to update the car's look.  Therefore, before the small editing while stays at the same chassis is called Pre-Facelift literally.  And Facelift is obviously talking about AFTER the editing on the design, or also called Post-Facelift.

What is Clip-On and Screw-On?
For pre-facelift E46 Coupe and Convertible, BMW has switched from the 99-01 Clip-On type corner light to the 02-03 Screw-on type corner.  Clip-On and Screw-On is referring to how the corner light is secured onto the car.  Clip-On means by clips and Screw-on means by screws.  They are not interchangeable.  Here are 2 photos to show you the difference:

Clip On:

Screw On:

BMW E CODE:
E30 = 1983-1991 BMW 3 Series
E32 = 1988-1995 BMW 7 Series
E34 = 1989-1996 BMW 5 Series
E36 = 1992-1999 BMW 3 Series
E37 = 1996-2002 BMW Z3
E38 = 1995-2001 BMW 7 Series
E39 = 1997-2003 BMW 5 Series
E46 = 1999-2006 BMW 3 Series
E53 = 2000-2006 BMW X5
E60 / E61 = 2004-2009 BMW 5 Series
E63 / E64 = 2004-2009 BMW 6 Series
E65 / E66 = 2002-2008 BMW 7 Series
E70 = 2007-2010 BMW X5
E71 = 2008-2010 BMW X6
E82 = 2008-2010 BMW 1 Series Coupe
E83 = 2003-2008 BMW X3
E85 = 2003-2008 BMW Z4
E87 = BMW 1 Series Hatchback
E88 = 2008-2010 BMW 1 Series Convertible
E90 = 2006-2010 BMW 3 Series Sedan
E91 = 2006-2010 BMW 3 Series Wagon
E92 = 2007-2010 BMW 3 Series Coupe
E93 = 2007-2010 BMW 3 Series Convertible
F01 = 2009+ BMW 7 Series
F10 / F11 = 2010+ BMW 5 Series

 

MERCEDES Reference:

C207 Chassis = 2010+ E Class 2D/Convertible
W124 Chassis = 1984-1995 E Class
W140 Chassis = 1991-1999 S Class
W163 Chassis = 1998-2005 ML Class
W164 Chassis = 2006-2010 ML Class
W201 Chassis = 1984-1993 190E / 190D
W202 Chassis = 1994-2000 C Class
W203 Chassis = 2001-2007 C Class
W204 Chassis = 2008-2010 C Class
W208 Chassis = 1998-2002 CLK Class
W209 Chassis = 2003-2009 CLK Class
W210 Chassis = 1996-2002 E Class
W211 Chassis = 2003-2009 E Class
W212 Chassis = 2010+ E Class 4D/5D
W215 Chassis = 2000-2006 CL Class
W216 Chassis = 2007+ CL Class
W219 Chassis = 2006-2010 CLS Class
W220 Chassis = 2000-2006 S Class
W221 Chassis = 2007-2010 S Class
R129 Chassis = 1990-2002 SL Class
R170 Chassis = 1998-2004 SLK Class
R171 Chassis = 2005-2010 SLK Class
R230 Chassis = 2003-2010 SL Class

 

HID installation reference:

Factory HID Bulb (D2S / D2R) replacement:  Contact us so we can email the PDF file.

HID upgrade on Fog Light:  Contact us so we can email the PDF file.

 

Connecting new Headlights For with Factory Xenon Models:

Option A - For With Factory Xenon Model Ė To connect new HID headlights when you are using your factory HID bulbs and ballasts:

Installation Tips:
1. Slide H7 Adapter onto a D2S/D2R HID bulb.
2. You will find that the part with red circle/arrow does not clear the H7 Adapter's notch.
3. Find a proper tool to cut/trim that part (we used a dremel tool - see the pics).
4. The red-colored part should look like green-circled part.
5. Insert the H7 rebased D2S/R bulb into the H7 headlight housing and you are good to go!

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d d d    

 

Option B - For With Factory Xenon Model Ė To connect new HID headlights when you are purchasing new HID bulbs from us but not the ballasts:

You should see the new HID bulbs are pre-installed already in the headlight housing, follow the instruction here to connect them.  www.speedstersource.com/FISH/INSTALL_FACTORY_BALLAST.htm

 

Option C - For With Factory Xenon Model Ė To connect new HID headlights if you purchase the new HID ballasts and bulbs from us:

Here is the basic concept.  The car will provide power to the factory xenon ballast and then from the ballast to the HID bulb.

Now, since the whole unit has the headlight with HID bulbs pre-installed inside and pre-connected to the new xenon ballast, and then you will see 2 wires coming out from the new xenon ballast with 2 blue butt splices at the end.  One wire is RED (positive) and the other is BLACK (negative). 

What you need to do is to disconnect the power going to the factory xenon ballast and re-connect them to those 2 wires (red and black with blue butt splices).  Disconnect the battery before you do any of the above!

You will locate the wires coming from the car and to your factory xenon ballast, those 2 wires are the power supply wires from the car, one of them will be the positive and the other is the negative.  Identify them and disconnect them and re-connect them to the red (+) and black (-) wires by clamping down the blue butt splices.  That is all you need to do.

Here is the link for more visual reference:  www.speedstersource.com/FISH/INSTALL_FACTORY_HID.htm

 

Angel Eye installation reference (for BMW models only):

How to connect relay wire harness (if you have purchased the CCFL pre-installed version, we have always pre-wired the relay wire harness for you) :  www.speedstersource.com/FISH/INSTALL_CCFL.htm  (The reference guide is for BMW E46, but all BMW use the same exact concept.  Step 1 and 2 is for the CCFL, which if you purchased the pre-installed version, skip it.  If you did not purchase the CCFL version, skip it since you donít need to perform that installation).  BMW has the battery in the trunk, but also a battery post with Positive (+) and Negative (-) terminals under the hood, the top left corner.  So use that as your power source.

The above guide is for E46, however same concept on your vehicle:.
 
The two wires (red + and black -) with metal hook are to go to the battery post under the hood for power.  And the 2 red with white strip wires are the trigger wire.  Use one to connect to the ignition slot in ECU box so your angel eyes become your DRL (daytime running light).  The other one is for remote-on feature which you need to connect that other trigger wire to the interior footwell light's positive so you can remote control the fade on/off with your BMW key.  If you don't want to connect it to remote-on feature, simply wrap it with electric tape and leave it un-connected.

 

If you purchase the CCFL rings only, the wiring part is the same above but you do have to purchase the relay wire harness separately.  If you need the CCFL rings installation, please contact us so we can send the PDF or JPG file via email.

 

Detail BMW Angel Eye and MERCEDES, VW, AUDI Headlight Installation Guides:

Click HERE for the link to view or download detail instruction in PDF format

 

Troubleshoot on HID system:

If the HID system won't light up at all on neither sides, the chance of the polarity connection incorrectly is almost 100%.  Check the polarity connection, positive to positive and negative to negative is crucial.  In the back of most of the headlights we sell will have Low Beam = Yellow (Positive +) / Black (Negative -) wire with Black Adapter socket, High Beam = White (Positive +) / Black (Negative -) wire with Gray adapter socket and if there is an angel eye halo system = Blue or Red (Positive +) / Black (Negative -) wire.

*** Sometimes factory has wired it wrong and it becomes positive to negative when you plug in, so simply reverse it 180 degree and put them in again so it's positive to positive and negative to negative, then it will work.

 

Always check the connection first, sometimes itís the loose connection that cause the rings not lit.  When power is not going through all the way to the system, of course the item wonít light up. 

What is cross reference testing?
You can always perform cross reference to determine which component has issue.  For example, if you have problem on one side of the headlight and running good on the other; take the ballast out from the problem side and switch it with the good side.  If the good side still runs good, that means the ballast from the problem side is good.  Do the same with the HID bulb to determine the bulb is good or not.  The same concept can be used on any devices that require a light and a some sort of transformer to operate.  Doing cross reference testing allow you to pin point which component is actually the one giving you problem.

The chance of more than one component fail at the same time is extremely rare, so if that is what you have, please double check all connection again or simply use a separate 12V power source (separate from the car) to connect positive and negative to provide power, that is the simplest way to test the HID system working or not without getting involved with more complicated system in the car.

To have error message occurred AFTER installing the HID system is very rare.  But if you turn on and off the engine several times and still happens, and you see the HID system is working fine (meaning it lights up fine), then the only way to get rid of the error message is re-flash the computer code that can only performed by the dealers.  When you go to the dealer, simply ask them to re-flash the code to set it as Xenon mode.  There is also another way that people purchase error code-cancellation resistor for the HID, however, that is NOT guaranteed 100% work. 

As for flashing (won't stay on all the time, keeps blinking) occurred AFTER installing the HID system, same, the only way to have the HID works properly is re-flash the computer code that can only performed by the dealers.  When you go to the dealer, simply ask them to re-flash the code to set it as Xenon mode.

 

Troubleshoot on CCFL Angel Eye System:

Always check the connection first, sometimes itís the loose connection that cause the rings not lit.  When power is not going through all the way to the system, of course the item wonít light up. 

You can always perform cross reference to determine which component has issue.  For example, if you have problem on one side of the headlight and running good on the other; take the inverter out of the problem side and switch it with the good side.  If the good side still runs good, that means the inverter from the problem side is good.  Do the same with the CCFL rings to determine the ring is good or not.

If you have one ring out of two on one side is not lighting up, that means the ring has issue, not the inverter.

Assuming that you have checked all the connection, if you have BOTH rings out at the same time, in 99% of the cases, itís the inverter.  Again, do the cross reference suggested above to determine exact component that has an issue.

 

Troubleshoot on UHP LED Angel Eye System:

To troubleshoot UHP LED is very similar to CCFL.  Always check the connection first, sometimes itís the loose connection that cause the rings not lit.  When power is not going through all the way to the system, of course the item wonít light up. 

You can always perform cross reference to determine which component has issue.  For example, if you have problem on one side of the headlight and running good on the other; take the LED equalizer (black or white box) out of the problem side and switch it with the good side.  If the good side still runs good, that means the LED equalizer box from the problem side is good.  Do the same with the LED rings to determine the ring is good or not.

If you have one ring out of two on one side is not lighting up, that means the ring has issue, not the LED equalizer box.  If you have both rings on the same side out, that most likely means LED rings are NOT the issue, instead loose connection (which power did not go through, thus both rings not light up) or LED equalizer box is the issue.  Either way, perform cross reference testing will allow you to isolate and identify which component if not loose connection is the issue that is causing the problem.  Remember, LED rings consists of 40 ~ 80 LEDs in each ring, so for all of them to fail at the same time is really unlikely.  It's like the Christmas tree with 80 bulbs on it all of them fail at the same time, would you expect it's all 80 bulbs that blew or it's because the connection?  The logic is simple, it's most likely the loose connection.

Below we illustrate how the LED rings are wired in general and how you can pin point or find the likely spot that causes the loose connection.

A.  The below shows how the LED rings are set up which you can see wires from each rings get to connected to the LED equalizer box (in this case, white one) and then connect to the power wires (RED + and BLACK - ones in the housing as shown in this photo, but sometimes you will see BLUE + and BLACK - wires there) that leading to outside to connect to power source (which most of time are connected with the angel eyes relay wiring harness that are pre-wired)

 

B.  As you can see, here illustrated the wires from the rings to the LED box:

 

C.  Make sure the wires from the LED box to the Power Wires leading outside has matched polarity, + to + and - to -.  You see both black wires from the LED box, the one with white dot / strip is the Positive wire.

 

D.  Finally, the most likely place to have dis-connection is those 2 butt splices as they are made of plastic, sometimes because the heat inside the headlight will cause them to loose it up.  So, you can simply cut them and replace new ones or soldiering them.